Wednesday, May 18, 2011

3 different pool filters - our comparison

#1 choice for residential pools: D.E. Filters -  This type of filter is the most efficient filter available ... uses diatomaceous earth as the filtering element which when added to the skimmer as the pump is running, collects on the outside of the filter grids. The pool/spa water must pass through this filter media before returning to the pool/spa. Filters up to 3-5 microns of debris (filters out the bacteria that causes algae). Maintenance - disassemble filter and clean grids 2x/yr. Less operating time for pump than a sand or cartridge filter: recommended to turn all the gallons in the pool 2x/day in the spring & summer, 1x/day in the fall & winter (ex: 20,000 gallon pool using a pentair challenger pump [ pumps100 gallons/minute] = [100 gallons x 60 mintues = 6000], [20,000 / 6000 = 3.33] ... pump must run 3.33hrs. to circulate 20,000 gallons through this particular pump. These are considered high pressure filters ... recommended filter pressure is btwn. 13-18lbs.





#2: Sand Filters - recommended for commercial pools because they operate better than D.E. filters when running the pump 24 hours a day. Filters up to 40 microns of debris. Doesn't clog up w/ oils (body oils and suntan oils) from a large bather load as rapidly as a D.E. or cartridge filter. Maintenance - open top and add filter degreaser, stir up sand, let soak for at least an hour, backwash. Also, approx. every five years the sand needs changed (when the sand granules get rounded). Operating time for pump to run is a minimum of 12 hours. Doesn't filter out the bacteria that causes algae ... will filter out body and suntan oils. Also considered high pressure filters ... recommended filter pressure is btwn. 13-18lbs.




#3:Cartridge Filters - This is our least recommended filter for residential pools (less efficient than D.E. filters and more maintenance than D.E. or sand filters) ... water passes through paper cartridges before returning to the pool/spa.  Filters up to 10 microns of debris. Doesn't filter out bacteria that causes algae ... will filter out body & suntan oils. These are considered low pressure filters and must use a 2 speed pump at low setting or a smaller h.p. pump, which either way requires longer running time for pump. Maintenance - the filters need cleaned at least once a month in the summer. Must disassemble filter and remove cartridges to clean and soak. Operating time for pump depends on h.p. of pump ... recommended to turn all the gallons in the pool 2x/day in the spring & summer, 1x/day in the fall & winter. 



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Thursday, April 14, 2011

Replacing stone coping - Jeff's pool

This is our latest renovation ... we started out with instructions to replace cracked/broken stones and reapply loose ones. When I went to the rock yard to find 12" x 24" calico, they only had random rectangles. I decided to use the 18" x 24" and cut them down to size. Once we had the stone at the site, we were ready to start.

We began by taking up the loose and broken stones using a thin/wide chisel & small sledge. Once the owner saw the new rock & how the existing had yellowed, he decided to replace almost 90% of the coping stones around the pool & spa (good decision). After removing the stones, we removed the mortar bed from the pool beam ... reason I do this is because I use my own mix which I will share later in this post. This is the time to look at what caused the rock to come loose. In this case, I found that the mason's who originally applied this did not wet the stone or beam of the pool as they laid it, and it was probably laid in the hot part of the summer. Also calico stone is very smooth and takes extra procedures to ensure a strong bong to the mortar.



















   
Notice how we cut the mortar bed about 2" behind the edge to prevent knocking the tile loose as we chiseled out the mortar bed on top of the pool beam. Tools we used for this procedure were wide/thin chisels, small sledge, small chipping hammer running off a small air compressor, and 4" grinder w/ a diamond blade.

After cleaning off the debris and dust from the beam of the pool and spa, we are ready to cut the coping and place it. It's best to make all the cuts & just set the stone in place before applying.

Next step was to set the stone. I used a white mortar mix to set the stone and fill in the mortar joints on top and below. The mix consisted of 1 part white masonary, 1 part white portland, & 3 parts washed mason's sand. This mix is impervious to the elements (type M - will not break down) and high bonding strength (type S). We also used a bonding adhesive for bonding new concrete to old made by custom crete ... we applied this (after wetting the beam and stone) to the bottom side of the stone & the top of the pool/spa beam. After the mortar dried, we filled in the mortar joints between the stone pieces & between the stone & tile.









 The pool owner decided he liked the stone when it was wet better than when it was dry, so we sealed the stone w/ a sealer that brought out the grain.













Look for more postings including tips on servicing your pool in the near future ... 
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Thursday, March 24, 2011

Joe's spa - turning heater on & lighting pilot


Using the Spa Heater
         
          

 normal pool operation





     
    spa operation





    1.Turn valves 180 degrees as pictured above.


    2.Turn on heater (toggle switch above), make sure temperature dial is turned all the way to the left.
     
    *** heater should turn on w/in 30 seconds
     ***wait until water is desired temperature before turning on air blower.

    3.When done using spa, turn valves back to pool operation position.

    ***let pool pump run another ten minutes to allow pipes and heat exchanger to cool down 

    Lighting the Pilot

    1.Read the instructions inside the heater (remove front panel by raising it up and pulling it out)


    2.turn the gas valve to pilot.
     
     


     3.Find the pilot generator ... bottom right behind pilot tube.


    4.Using a  long fireplace lighter, hold flame to pilot generator while holding down the gas valve in "pilot" position.
    5.Continue holding down the gas valve in "pilot" position for 20 seconds or longer.
    6.Release holding down valve & turn gas valve to "on" position.
    7.look & check if pilot light stays lit.
    8.Replace front panel on heater before flipping toggle switch to turn on heater.

    ***heater is ready to turn on.


    Tuesday, March 15, 2011

    top picks for skimmer baskets ... big difference

    If you have certain trees around your pool, then this time of year can be quite challenging keeping your pool clean.Specifically, live oaks have what I call "hard shell" leaves and they fall constantly in the spring. As they fill up the skimmers, the pool pump starves for water and will suck in air causing the pump motor to get hot and eventually eliminating the system's ability to filter the water causing it to get cloudy.

    Simple solution in most cases is to add new skimmer baskets ... depending on what type of skimmer you have (usually indicated by the name on the skimmer lid), here's our top choices to keep up with those hard shell leaves:

    • American products and Aladdin make a skimmer basket with a floating weir ... these can also fit in Pentair skimmers. The basket is very deep and much sturdier than others. The weir never wears out or gets stuck like normal weirs do, and they are not prone to sucking air as quickly as others

    .


    • SwimPro Baskets - next best skimmer is one with a middle that comes up, allowing water to get to pump even when basket is full of leaves. 




     Naturally, the more you clean the baskets the cleaner your pool will be but the type of basket you have will make a huge difference! Also, don't forget to clean out the pump basket every time you empty out the skimmer baskets.