Thursday, April 14, 2011

Replacing stone coping - Jeff's pool

This is our latest renovation ... we started out with instructions to replace cracked/broken stones and reapply loose ones. When I went to the rock yard to find 12" x 24" calico, they only had random rectangles. I decided to use the 18" x 24" and cut them down to size. Once we had the stone at the site, we were ready to start.

We began by taking up the loose and broken stones using a thin/wide chisel & small sledge. Once the owner saw the new rock & how the existing had yellowed, he decided to replace almost 90% of the coping stones around the pool & spa (good decision). After removing the stones, we removed the mortar bed from the pool beam ... reason I do this is because I use my own mix which I will share later in this post. This is the time to look at what caused the rock to come loose. In this case, I found that the mason's who originally applied this did not wet the stone or beam of the pool as they laid it, and it was probably laid in the hot part of the summer. Also calico stone is very smooth and takes extra procedures to ensure a strong bong to the mortar.



















   
Notice how we cut the mortar bed about 2" behind the edge to prevent knocking the tile loose as we chiseled out the mortar bed on top of the pool beam. Tools we used for this procedure were wide/thin chisels, small sledge, small chipping hammer running off a small air compressor, and 4" grinder w/ a diamond blade.

After cleaning off the debris and dust from the beam of the pool and spa, we are ready to cut the coping and place it. It's best to make all the cuts & just set the stone in place before applying.

Next step was to set the stone. I used a white mortar mix to set the stone and fill in the mortar joints on top and below. The mix consisted of 1 part white masonary, 1 part white portland, & 3 parts washed mason's sand. This mix is impervious to the elements (type M - will not break down) and high bonding strength (type S). We also used a bonding adhesive for bonding new concrete to old made by custom crete ... we applied this (after wetting the beam and stone) to the bottom side of the stone & the top of the pool/spa beam. After the mortar dried, we filled in the mortar joints between the stone pieces & between the stone & tile.









 The pool owner decided he liked the stone when it was wet better than when it was dry, so we sealed the stone w/ a sealer that brought out the grain.













Look for more postings including tips on servicing your pool in the near future ... 
Executive Pool Service also find us on Facebook ~



Thursday, March 24, 2011

Joe's spa - turning heater on & lighting pilot


Using the Spa Heater
         
          

 normal pool operation





     
    spa operation





    1.Turn valves 180 degrees as pictured above.


    2.Turn on heater (toggle switch above), make sure temperature dial is turned all the way to the left.
     
    *** heater should turn on w/in 30 seconds
     ***wait until water is desired temperature before turning on air blower.

    3.When done using spa, turn valves back to pool operation position.

    ***let pool pump run another ten minutes to allow pipes and heat exchanger to cool down 

    Lighting the Pilot

    1.Read the instructions inside the heater (remove front panel by raising it up and pulling it out)


    2.turn the gas valve to pilot.
     
     


     3.Find the pilot generator ... bottom right behind pilot tube.


    4.Using a  long fireplace lighter, hold flame to pilot generator while holding down the gas valve in "pilot" position.
    5.Continue holding down the gas valve in "pilot" position for 20 seconds or longer.
    6.Release holding down valve & turn gas valve to "on" position.
    7.look & check if pilot light stays lit.
    8.Replace front panel on heater before flipping toggle switch to turn on heater.

    ***heater is ready to turn on.


    Tuesday, March 15, 2011

    top picks for skimmer baskets ... big difference

    If you have certain trees around your pool, then this time of year can be quite challenging keeping your pool clean.Specifically, live oaks have what I call "hard shell" leaves and they fall constantly in the spring. As they fill up the skimmers, the pool pump starves for water and will suck in air causing the pump motor to get hot and eventually eliminating the system's ability to filter the water causing it to get cloudy.

    Simple solution in most cases is to add new skimmer baskets ... depending on what type of skimmer you have (usually indicated by the name on the skimmer lid), here's our top choices to keep up with those hard shell leaves:

    • American products and Aladdin make a skimmer basket with a floating weir ... these can also fit in Pentair skimmers. The basket is very deep and much sturdier than others. The weir never wears out or gets stuck like normal weirs do, and they are not prone to sucking air as quickly as others

    .


    • SwimPro Baskets - next best skimmer is one with a middle that comes up, allowing water to get to pump even when basket is full of leaves. 




     Naturally, the more you clean the baskets the cleaner your pool will be but the type of basket you have will make a huge difference! Also, don't forget to clean out the pump basket every time you empty out the skimmer baskets.

    Thursday, February 10, 2011

    minimize freeze damage on your pool system

    In the event of a power failure during freezing temperatures there are some simple steps you can take to eliminate freeze damage on your swimming pool equipment and save yourself thousands of dollars. Also, if you notice your water level dropping then you may have a busted pipe or leak somewhere at the equipment ... these steps apply to this situation also:

    1. turn off the breakers (breaker box is usually located in the garage and breaker/s should be marked "pool equip.").
    2. remove 2 plugs on the pool pump (1/2" plugs located on the bottom/front of pump) *see drawing above
    3. open up air relief valve on top of filter and look for 1 1/2" plug towards the bottom of the filter.*see drawing above.
    4. open up air relief valve on the front header of the heater (sometimes it is a large brass plug that need to be removed). Also open plug/s on rear header (usually 1/2 inch brass plug/s) **may need to remove panel to access plugs. *see drawing above
    5. remove 1/4" plastic plug on cleaner booster pump located towards the bottom front.
    ***DO NOT  try to open backwash valve on filter or turn any valves ... wait till everything thaws before starting equipment back up.

    Monday, January 24, 2011

    Best automatic pool cleaner on the market!

    ...for swimming pools with a large amount of debris and/or leaves ... called the Polaris 3900 sport. In my opinion, this cleaner is not only much more efficient but will also last far longer than any other cleaner on the market. This cleaner operates with a booster pump and if your pool currently operates with a suction cleaner, then I would not recommend switching mainly from a cost effectiveness standpoint. With over 25 years experience in the swimming pool industry as a builder & service tech and experiential knowledge of just about every cleaner available, here are some main reasons why:
    • all wheel drive system w/ 50% more torque than other polaris models. This gives it more ability to get around areas of the pool that otherwise would cause the cleaner to become stuck.
    • wider wheels - same benefit as above because of better traction.
    • 4 vacuum jets (as opposed to 3), giving the cleaner better suction allowing it to pick up debris more efficiently.
    • stainless steel belt drive (as opposed to rubber) ... runs better and doesn't wear out!
    • larger throat and debris bag than other units allowing it to pick up more, larger debris and reducing the amount of times between cleaning out the bag.
    ***This is under the assumption that I believe the polaris to be the best manufacturer of cleaners that run the return side of the system.

    This unit costs about $200 more than the polaris 280, but the cost difference will be compensated for in the repairs alone not to mention the efficiency. ~
    Click here for printable brochure on Polaris' website

    Monday, January 17, 2011

    2 ways to save your swimming pool coping before it's too late.

    Generally, it's important to seal all cracks:
    1. between the coping (rock, brick, coping stone) and the tile. *note picture above labeled "mortar joint".
    2. between the coping and the deck. *note picture above labeled "deck-o-seal".
      The "deck-o-seal" is actually a water barrier. "Deck-o-seal" is a brand name for a two part mix which is poured into the space between the coping and the deck. A sand base is used to fill up most of the space and the deck-o-seal is pored on top of the sand (rules are no deeper than the width of the joint). If applied correctly and if the deck does not move too much, this should last approximately 5 years before needing to be replaced.

      If you see visible cracks in the caulking-like substance, depending on the size of the crack and length, a small amount of clear 100% silicone can be used to seal the crack as a temporary fix. Otherwise, it is recommended to remove the old deck-o-seal and replace with new.  

      A crack in the mortar between the coping and the tile usually starts around the skimmers and generally happens more rapidly on geometric shaped pools (45 degree angles). The crack can be cut with a 4" - 4 1/2" grinder and a diamond blade. This gives about a 1/8" wide gap to reapply new mortar. If the crack is wider and the mortar starts falling out when cutting, it's best to chip out all loose mortar and fill with new. Doing this will prevent the crack from going around the entire pool if caught early. If caught in later stages and done properly, it will gain you another 5 years before replacing  the coping and tile.

    **when water gets into cracks and goes below the surface, it doesn't evaporate and will actually break down the properties of the mortar!

      Check for future blogs about how to properly mix mortar that will last far longer than what you can buy premixed.

    Sunday, January 9, 2011

    5 things NOT to do on your swimming pool in freezing temperatures

    1. Do NOT turn your heater on ... heating the water not only costs approx. $50/day, but it will decrease the gas pressure for your home heater ... in addition, heater owner's manuals warn owners not to run the heaters when temperatures get below 20 degrees Fahrenheit!
    2. Do NOT throw wood logs in the pool to prevent ice from forming on the surface. Wood absorbs the water and freezes itself. It's best to use plastic jugs filled 1/4 way w/ water or Styrofoam coolers w/ a little water in them also. Especially in the spa to prevent structural cracking, and in front of pool skimmers to keep circulation intact. 
    3. Do NOT turn the pool/spa pump off ... rapid, continuously moving water will not freeze.
    4. Do NOT try to backwash pool filter ... backwash handle can freeze in position and could possibly break. If handle breaks in a certain position, running pool pump will drain the water in the pool.
    5. Do NOT let the water level get below the skimmers. The pump will lose prime and be unable to keep the water flowing.